Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
Moderators: richardh08, Boophoenix, Lloyd
Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
We will be stocking a far larger range of products for the enthusiast over the next week or so we will also give free P&P on the selected items on purchase.
In the meantime if you don’t see it just ask!
In the meantime if you don’t see it just ask!
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
Thanks PG.
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
As I expect you know OB has closed and I think for good to be honest, it’s been a busy weekend for myself but it was worth it Dave.
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
Thanks for letting us know.
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
Not working very well on iPhone I will check the pages on my laptop when I'm home next week.
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
Hi Ken, looking for a good charcoal and water soluble binder. Any ideas? Thanks. BP type.
' I regard the earth as a courageous global experiment that failed ' QUENTIN CRISP
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
redacted
L
L
"Pyro for Fun and Profit for More Than Sixty Years"
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
OK so I have good charcoal I can provide that no problem, as for the water activated binder I would say Dextrin if you’re making a little BP.
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
For those not familiar with the method, Ned Gorski (and others) developed a method for 'fast production' of lift and burst-quality BP using an alcohol granulation technique.
Basically, it involves a bit of red gum in replacement for any water-soluble binders so that it is alcohol-labile. It's then screen granulated and classified.
I, personally, still choose to "puck and corn" BP with no binders whatsoever, except the sulfur, which becomes motile at high pressures.
You can find that alcohol-granulation method detailed in the tutorials on Ned's website.
Lloyd
Basically, it involves a bit of red gum in replacement for any water-soluble binders so that it is alcohol-labile. It's then screen granulated and classified.
I, personally, still choose to "puck and corn" BP with no binders whatsoever, except the sulfur, which becomes motile at high pressures.
You can find that alcohol-granulation method detailed in the tutorials on Ned's website.
Lloyd
"Pyro for Fun and Profit for More Than Sixty Years"
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
I can't find the article on Fireworking.com , do you have a link?Lloyd wrote:For those not familiar with the method, Ned Gorski (and others) developed a method for 'fast production' of lift and burst-quality BP using an alcohol granulation technique.
Basically, it involves a bit of red gum in replacement for any water-soluble binders so that it is alcohol-labile. It's then screen granulated and classified.
I, personally, still choose to "puck and corn" BP with no binders whatsoever, except the sulfur, which becomes motile at high pressures.
You can find that alcohol-granulation method detailed in the tutorials on Ned's website.
Lloyd
I tried some of these alternative methods of making basic lift a while back when I started out and I have to be honest I was never very impressed. I seem to recall freezing acetone and pouring it into a heated BP slurry or something similar lol.
Once I got a small ball mill I never looked back.
Cheers
Sparky
Sparky
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
"Pyro for Fun and Profit for More Than Sixty Years"
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
So basically you mill up some quality BP dust (as you would anyway) and using just alcohol you damp it enough to form the usual "putty" ball and you granulate to through about a 10 - 20 mesh screen, dry fast and off you go.
It makes sense, over wetting with water has always made me question ricing BP with any water as you instantly undo your hard work milling as the KNO3 goes into solution and will crystallize out in all manner of unpredictable ways as the water evaporates off.
I've noticed more than once in the past that BP I milled up was less "fast" after ricing with water to wet it. I thought it was just my imagination.
I wonder if this is worth trying with my BP for my core burners just to cut down on the mess and dust and without affecting the performance in a negative way.
Nice post.
Cheers
Sparky
Sparky
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
Hi Sparky,
if it's done right there is really no issue with re-crystalization of the nitrate - whilst this can happen if it's leached in someway, such as on to a porous surface the water, as I understand, helps carry the nitrate into the pores of the charcoal. More of an issue would be insufficient drying, depending on how you do it, may take some time.
I would recommend you try making some tiger tail stars - make 2 batches, one using the correct method of nitrating the charcoal and one without and observe the difference. You may be surprised.
if it's done right there is really no issue with re-crystalization of the nitrate - whilst this can happen if it's leached in someway, such as on to a porous surface the water, as I understand, helps carry the nitrate into the pores of the charcoal. More of an issue would be insufficient drying, depending on how you do it, may take some time.
I would recommend you try making some tiger tail stars - make 2 batches, one using the correct method of nitrating the charcoal and one without and observe the difference. You may be surprised.
Re: Lots of new stuff coming in the shop.
I think this has gone of topic a bit, I keep thinking there's new stuff in the shop.